Jordan's Ghost covered in marine growth

I've been living in the boatyard for nearly two weeks. It's loud, commercial, full of marine poison finishes, spray paints, epoxies, glass fibers and other toxic substances. I've been up to my elbows in paint for days. I've ruined most of my clothes. It feels like living in a sort of post apocalyptic junkyard, complete with dead birds, mangy dogs and rowdy tenants. Between materials, haul out, launching and blocking (putting the boat on stilts), it's cost me an arm and a leg.

Jordan's Ghost in a sling

I tried sailing to Stock Island a second time on Wednesday. The small craft advisory that went into effect Monday was still in place. The wind was blowing around twenty and the seas were very rough. I'd never been out sailing in this area under conditions like that. The water didn't look like waves at all, but more like the deep, angry claw marks of some giant beast. Each wave was some six feet tall and they were positioned one right after the other so that the boat pitched up then down continuously at what seemed like thirty to forty degrees.

Man of War Harbor in Key West

Obstacles. I was supposed to be in Stock Island on Monday, hauling out Jordan's Ghost and beginning the first of a few basic improvements. I have been planning on getting the boat cleaned up, repainted and possibly re-plumbed before I leave town for Colorado in the first week of January. So far, no luck.

The Marquesa Keys

The Marquesa Keys. The narrow, white sand beaches are made up entirely of shells ground to fine dust. The shallows glitter with crystalline humility, like a thin layer of glass hovering over sea-grass, sponges and schools of tiny fish. Hermit crabs pick through shells methodically, slowly, and with a marked disinterest in time. Birds caw. Pelicans, seabirds of all kinds, birds of prey, swallows, finches; the mangroves teem with bird-song.

"I can't leave much sooner than October," Hatter warns, his eyes swollen slits and his hair a wire mesh, "I've got things to do before then. It takes about two weeks to Columbia at a good pace, you could make Panama in less."

"There's plenty I want to do to my boat as well," I concede, "it's just good to know there are people headed out that direction. I'd prefer to go with a group if it's possible, you know?"

"I'd like to round up some girls," says Hatter with his wheezing voice, one hand controlling the smoking outboard on his swamped fiberglass dinghy.

Arianna being towed into the Dog River

Mobile, Alabama. We arrived at the mouth of Mobile Bay on Monday morning, moving at a snail's pace abreast of five knot, variable winds. Flying wing-and-wing - the main over the starboard side and the jib to port - we were able to make headway at just over a knot. The ounce of control which that provided was a precious commodity considering there were oil platforms rising up out of the water to every side.

Scraping light winds with a Spinnaker

Gulf of Mexico. We've been at sea for three nights and have covered less than two hundred miles. The weather, while admittedly benign compared to our previous run from Key West to Tarpon Springs, has been unfavorable to say the least. After being towed into open water by Sonador and taking to the wind in a full six knots of glory, Arianna charged thirty miles into the Gulf before coming to an abrupt and alarming stop.

Arianna glides across the sea in sunny conditions.

Gulf of Mexico. I'm aboard the Arianna, a thirty-foot Cape Dory Ketch bound for Mobile, Alabama. The skipper, his wife (and first mate) and I are fifty plus miles offshore: blue-gray swells as far as the eye can see.

Jordan starts the Samurai's engine

I'm elbow deep in the Guana Coop's Samurai, a Japanese built compact that's painted garishly with the colors of the Guyana flag and plastered with coconut related bumper stickers. It's more rust than metal, and appears to be bound precariously together by the litter that pours out of its every orifice. Earlier, before packing up our coconut water stand at a local beach, we began the day with a practical game of find that smell. Something in the car has taken a trip to the great beyond.

Alyssa & Steve

Rock Key Sanctuary. Six miles off the coast of Key West the sea floor meets a few patchy reefs, slowly ascending from around thirty-five feet to about five. After a couple hundred yards of crystalline shallow water teeming with tropical fish and undersea plants, the reef falls away to a depth of nearly ninety feet. All three reefs in the area - Sand Key, Eastern Dry Rocks, and Rock Key - are sanctuary preservation zones that are protected by law. No hunting, collecting or fishing. Just looking.